Retezat Mountains in Steps and Frames: through forest, dwarf pine, and up to Lake Pietrele
BY ALEX
8 MIN READ
LAST UPDATE
JUN 23, 2025
Retezat Mountains in Steps and Frames: through forest, dwarf pine, and up to Lake Pietrele
The Retezat Mountains are the kind of place that calls you back again and again. But the hike to Lake Pietrele manages to gather everything that makes this massif special: dense spruce forest with soft morning light, alpine trails lined with dwarf pine, snow-covered peaks in late spring, and a glacial lake that feels like a hidden treasure. On this spring day, I captured not just breathtaking scenery, but the raw energy of the mountains, blooming fields of Crocus vernus, and the joy of my companion Snow, running across the last patches of snow.
General Trail Information
Difficulty: Medium (distance and elevation gain)
Duration: ~7 hours round-trip
Distance: ~10 km one way
Elevation gain: ~1100 m
Trail markings: blue stripe (Cârnic – Pietrele Hut), blue triangle (Pietrele Hut – Gențiana Hut – Bordul Tomii – Lake Pietrele)
Starting point: Cârnic (designated parking area)
Recommended season: Late spring to autumn
Trail Description: Cârnic – Gențiana Hut – Lake Pietrele
The route starts from the parking area in Cârnic and follows the forest road toward the Pietrele Hut, marked with a blue stripe. After some time, at a spot called “Curba Soacrei” (Mother-in-Law’s Bend), we leave the main path and switch to the blue triangle trail, which crosses the Stânișoara Valley and gently climbs to the Gențiana Hut.
In this first part of the trail, the morning light filtering through the spruce forest feels like walking through a living painting. Clean air, soft trails, the sound of water – and that feeling that the mountain is gently welcoming you.
Between Pietrele Hut and Gențiana Hut, the trail winds through dense forest, occasionally revealing small waterfalls and scenic clearings. One of them is Maria Magdalena Waterfall – a quiet, photogenic corner tucked between mossy roots and fir trees. The peaceful sound of water made it a perfect pause in the shade.
About 10 minutes past Gențiana Hut, I stumbled upon a blooming field of Crocus vernus – an alpine meadow transformed into a violet carpet. I couldn’t resist taking out the macro lens.
The climb continues through dwarf pine, and as we gain altitude, the forest slowly disappears behind us. The path passes Bordul Tomii and leads into the open alpine zone. Ahead, we see the snow-covered peaks of Bucura II and Custura Bucurii (also known as Peleguța). The air becomes sharper and colder – a sign that we’re close.
Roughly 45 minutes after leaving the forest, we arrive at Lake Pietrele, nestled at nearly 2000 m altitude. Snow still blankets the ridges, and Snow makes the most of it, dashing through the frozen patches with joy. At the lake’s edge, another unforgettable scene: blooming Crocus vernus framed by snowy peaks – the perfect contrast between spring and winter.
🌄 Points of Interest Along the Trail
This hike isn’t just a mountain route – it’s a sequence of nature’s highlights. Over the 10 km climb, the scenery changes often and impressively.
🌲 Spruce Forest
At the start of the trail, the dense spruce forest creates a quiet, almost mystical vibe. Light filtering through the branches sets a calm, cinematic mood.
🌸 Crocus vernus Bloom
Between Gențiana Hut and Bordul Tomii, we came across a full alpine meadow of Crocus vernus – a delicate and colorful surprise. These same flowers reappear at the lake, blooming against a backdrop of snow-covered ridges.
🌿 Dwarf Pine & Alpine Meadows
In the mid-section, the scenery shifts – the dark green of dwarf pine meets the grey of rock and open skies. It’s a clear transition into alpine territory.
🏔️ Bucura II and Custura Bucurii (Peleguța)
As the alpine plateau opens, the view explodes with depth. The white peaks seem sculpted for photos, especially with the calm surface of the glacial lake below.
❄️ Snow Remaining on the Trail
Even in May, parts of the trail were still covered in snow. For Snow (the dog), it was playtime – for me, it was a great contrast to capture with my lens.
Recommended Gear
Mountain boots with solid grip
Trekking poles (especially useful on descent)
Layered clothing (the alpine zone is chilly even in May)
Rain jacket or windbreaker
Water, snacks, and sunscreen
Camera or phone with manual settings – for landscapes and macro shots
Tips & Tricks for a Great Hike
Start early – it’s a long but rewarding trail
Park at Cârnic (watch for weekend crowds)
Don’t miss the dwarf pine zone – the slope is gentle and beautiful
Watch for snow on the trail – especially in spring
Crocus vernus blooms only for a short time – photograph with care
Conclusion
The hike to Lake Pietrele is a full-sensory spring experience in the Retezat Mountains. It brings together deep forest, alpine dwarf pine, snowy peaks, and the stillness of a glacial lake. It’s a trail that challenges your legs while soothing your mind and feeding your photographer’s eye.
If you’re looking for a one-day trail that takes you “far away” in just a few hours – Lake Pietrele is the perfect choice. Watch the vlog here and explore the full photo gallery.
With light,
Alex Gabor
jurnalulf56.com
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